D.H.K

First steps in puppy training

Step I - getting the puppy's attention

The only way your puppy will ever learn to respond to your commands is if you can first attract his attention and encourage the pup to home in on YOU. A young pup will generally look at you and prick his ears up when you speak to him. It is vital that you are able to keep this attention in order to proceed with further training.

Once your puppy really knows his name, attracting his attention is easy.  It is amazing how many adult dogs do not know their names.  Their owners would not agree, but ask them to call the dog when he is not already paying attention to them and see if he responds.  How many times does the owner have to call the dog's name before they are acknowledged (and how loud do they end up shouting?).  Eventually, many people will resort to words like biscuit or walkies to get attention.  These words, said in an excited tone get a response, so why not the dog's own name? The truth is, all too often, nobody has ever taken the time to really teach the dog that it's name has any importance, but words like biscuit are very important.

Puppies respond to almost anything said in a friendly tone, so it is easy to assume that they have recognised the name when it is jumbled up with a whole load of other words. Time spent now on teaching your puppy his name, and practicing attracting his attention is an ideal base for future training.

Teaching your puppy his name

Several times a day, take a few minutes to reinforce your puppy' s name.  Arm yourself with some titbits and toys and put your pup on his lead.  The lead is helpful to give you some gentle control over the pup' s movements - should he decide that something else is more interesting, you can stop him from wandering off without having to chase him.  You are in charge.  Use your titbits and toys to attract the pup' s attention, call his name, and reward him for looking at you. Next, hold the titbit up to your face so the pup has to look up at you when he responds to your calling his name.  Repeat this several times and the pup will soon learn that, when he looks up at you, he is rewarded.  

At the same time as you reward the pup with a food treat, also use verbal praise, tell the pup he is good.  As you progress, the sound of your voice will be the reward, the occasional titbit merely a bonus.  Repeat the exercise using a toy to attract the pup' s attention. Call his name and squeak a toy, or tap a ball on the floor.  Hold the toy up to your face, call the pup' s name, then throw the toy gently (remember, he is on the lead so don't throw the ball too far!).  Allow the pup to chase the toy, and gently guide him back to you to continue the game.


Experiment with different toys, treats and tones of voice to learn what works best for your pup. Always reward your pup when he responds to his name and he will come to know that that specific sound reallv is his own name.  An example session with 'Buster' the puppy:

Owner puts Buster on lead, takes piece of cheese from polythene bag behind back, holds cheese between thumb and forefinger, shows it to Buster but does not give it to him, brings hand with cheese back in towards body and calls 'Buster' in an upbeat, happy voice.  Buster follows the cheese and looks at trainer.  Good boys, Buster, give cheese
Repeat 34 times

Future repetitions:   hold cheese up to face, so Buster must look up at you replace food with squeaky toy, ball bounced on floor, chew tapped on floor etc.

Once you can be confident of getting your puppy' s attention and holding it for a few moments at a time, you will be able to start incorporating recalls and positions into your training sessions.

Step 2 -teaching your puppv to sit

Whv? A dog in a sitting position is more relaxed and attentive than one that is bouncing around. The dog can pay attention to you and take his cues as to what to do next from you when he is sitting quietly. You can slip a collar and lead on, examine him and groom him easily from a sitting position. The sitting position is ideal for the dog to greet people. A puppy leaping up on visitors is cute, but a 30 kg muddy monster may not be so welcome!

How? With the pup on his lead to stop him wandering off, attract his attention with a toy or tit bit and slowly raise the reward above his head. The pup' s head should follow the treat and, as the head comes up. the bottom must go down, placing the puppy naturally into a sitting position. At the exact instant that the puppy' s bottom touches the ground, give him the food treat and praise him, but DO NOT SAY SIT

Repeat the exercise a number of times, until the pup understands what you expect from him. Some pups catch on very quickly, others will take a little longer. Once you are sure that the pup will sit as you raise the hand with the treat, start saying 'SIT' as you give him the treat at the exact moment he assumes the sit position so he can associate the action with the word. Do not be tempted to use the command before you are confident that the pup understands what you want from him.  Remember, at this stage, the pup does not yet know what 'sit' means - it is just a noise.  

If you use the word repeatedly while he is jumping around, he will learn to associate the word with what he was doing when you said it. 'Sit' could come to mean leap around and play, not park your bottom on the ground!  Dogs understand body language far more readily than they understand our verbal form of communication. In time, you will be able to phase out the hand signal and use the word 'sit' alone, but do not be in too much of a rush to do so.


Get into the habit of giving only one command.  If you have to keep repeating yourself, you are either not keeping the puppy's attention or he does not understand what you want.  Go back to the beginning, show him again, and reward him every time he gets it right.


As soon as your puppy has caught on to the idea of sitting when he is asked, it is a good idea to get into the habit of asking him to sit and briefly attend to you before he gets anything he wants. In dog language, this is simply good manners.  Ask the pup to sit and attend to you briefly before you feed him, play a game, groom him, put his lead on, give him a cuddle or proceed with other training.

Teaching the puppy to lie down

• Why? 
  This is an ideal position for the dog to be in while you examine him or administer first aid. A dog which is lying down is less reactive to what is going on around him and is far more likely to STAY in position should he need to be left for a few moments.  An instant DOWN from a distance can be a life saver if the dog is heading for danger such as an approaching train when he is running close to a railway line, a horse galloping down a bridleway etc.

• Method 
  Start with the puppy paying attention to you in the sit position. Using his favourite titbit or toy, hold the treat level with the puppy' s nose and slowly lower the reward down in front of the puppy.  On reaching the floor, drag the treat towards you, in are in front of the puppy.  The puppy' s head should follow the reward and he will slide into the down position.
  
  Praise the pup and give him the reward at the moment that he assumes the correct position.  It may take a few attempts before the pup catches on and understands what is required of him before he earns the reward.  Some puppies, particularly of the smaller breeds, do not lie down properly using this method. If this is happening, try sitting next to the puppy and using your legs as a 'bridge' to draw the treat under. 
  
  The pup will follow the treat under the tunnel and will be encouraged to lie down.  Make sure he received his reward at the exact moment when he lies down.  Practice and good timing will reward you both. As with teaching 'sit', do not use the command until you are sure the puppy understands what you want from him.
  
  

Teaching the puppy to come when called

• Why? 
  Very young puppies tend to follow their people around, and it is easy to be lulled into a false sense of security that this will continue forever! Sooner or later you will take your puppy for walks somewhere with many interesting distractions and for the safety and sanity of all concerned it helps if you are confident the puppy will come back.  Many dogs are never allowed to run free as their owners are afraid they will not come back when called. This is very frustrating for the dog and makes it difficult for them to express normal canine behaviours.
  

• Method
  Your puppy will be eager to return to you if you make sure that you are the most exciting thing around! This is very easy in the house with no major distractions but can be a little more difficult in the park where there are other dogs to play with, or even at puppy playgroup! Enhancing your puppy appeal may involve titbits, toys and your voice. 
  
  Remember that your puppy' s line of focus is very low to the ground, so don't be afraid to get down to his level - bend or kneel down and tap the floor, shake a toy or clap your hands.  As with any training exercise, always gain the puppy's attention before issuing any commands. Have his interest focused on you and, once you are sure he is coming towards you call his name and the word 'come'. Lots of praise is needed every time the puppy comes to you, even when you have not called him. If the puppy becomes distracted before he reaches you, back away from him, making lots of exciting noises to attract his attention. 
  
  Do not be tempted to go after him - this will turn into a terrific (for the puppy) chasing game and he will probably win!  Always praise the puppy when he comes to you, no matter how long it takes.  Have the pup come close enough to you that you can touch his collar (this will be helpful in the future when you need him to come back and have his lead put on), and offer the food reward as you do so. 

  
  Especially while your puppy is young, he will probably stay fairly close to you on walks and will return to you regularly for reassurance.  Take advantage of this, and encourage him to turn this into a habit for life.  Whenever you see your pup coming towards you of his own free will, call his name and 'come' and reward him with praise, and a game or food treat when he reaches you.  Let him go away again, saying 'good boy, go play' or similar, to continue the game - it's no fun coming back if you just get put straight on the lead every time
  
  Key points for successful training

  • Training should be fun for both of you -incorporate training exercises into games the pup enjoys

  • Keep the play/training sessions short but frequent and varied

  • Before a meal is better than after, no-one works well on a full stomach, puppies included

  •  Remember to allow for titbits used in training when planning your puppy' s diet. They are not extras but part of his daily ration (pieces of dry complete puppy food make ideal training treats)

  • Be consistent, Make a list of words you wish to use and make sure everyone dealing with the pup knows them. 

  • Make sure everyone understands the method of training and follows it.

  • Make a list below of the words and hand signals you will use when training your pup
    - Action
    - Command
    - Hand signal

  For example: 

  • Pay attention  -use puppy's name holding hand with treat up to face

  • Sit - use name plus sit with hand in front of nose, raise hand vertically 

  Other commands to teach:

  • Lie down

  • Come here

  • Stay

  • Roll over

  • Go to toilet

  • Don't do that

  • Well done/release (for example go play)

   

   

   

Puppy Socialising

Why does my puppy need to socialise? It is extremely important that any pup learns to socialise with other dogs and people, from an early age. The more experience they get of the big wide world the better.

How soon should they be socialised?

In dogs, the critical period is from 3 to 14 weeks. This is the period during which we have traditionally kept pups in isolation because of the risk of infectious diseases. A pup that sees few other dogs and humans before this age (e.g. if left alone in breeding kennels) will never be as confident and friendly as it could be, no matter what it experiences after this time.

So how do we overcome the vaccination problem?

New vaccines are highly effective. The vaccination regime used by Wright & Morten involves two injections, the first at 8 or 9 weeks, the second at 10 weeks. Each vaccination includes cover against Distemper, Hepatitis, and Leptospirosis.

When can my pup meet other dogs?

A week or two after the first injection, virtually all pups will have a good level of immunity against the above diseases. We recommend that pups meet other vaccinated dogs from this time, and that they are exposed to a wide variety of environments and places. High risk areas where lots of other dogs go (e.g. the local park) are best avoided.

Is this totally risk free?

No, but the risks of disease in this manner are very small. This risk must be balanced against the tremendous benefits to be gained from early socialisation. Since advising this policy over the last 2 years, the practice has had no cases of disease in vaccinated pups that could be attributable to early exposure.

My puppy has had his first injection with a neighbouring practice. Is it safe for him to go out?

No, not necessarily. Some practices just vaccinate against Leptospirosis at the first injection, and the pup will have no protection against the other diseases until several weeks after the second injection.

Feeding Your Puppy

What should you feed your puppy and why?                               

When should you feed him ?

What's In the food?

The purpose of your puppy's diet is to provide him with all the nutrients he needs to grow and remain active.  All food contain a mix of protein, carbohydrate, fat, minerals and vitamins, each of which plays a vital role in nutrition and must be supplied in the correct amounts by the puppy's diet.

Protein is important for growth and to repair damaged tissue, especially muscle.  This is why it is needed in higher amounts in the diets of growing pups and very active adult dogs.

Carbohydrates and fats are the body's main energy source.  Fats provide more energy than carbohydrates and are essential in small amounts for a healthy skin and coat.

Minerals and vitamins are important in the diet in small amounts.  Puppies and nursing bitches especially require plenty of calcium and phosphorus in their diet.  It is possible, however to get ‘too much of a good thing’ and it is dangerous to over supplement an already balanced diet.

As your pup grows into adulthood, his requirements for each of these nutrients will change, and it will be your responsibility to ensure that he is receiving the correct diet for each stage of his life.  The way in which you feed your dog is largely a matter of personal taste.  The two most common forms of commercial dog food are the tinned meat type, usually designed to be fed with a mixer biscuit, and the dry complete foods which are becoming increasingly popular.

Dry  complete diets have a number of advantages for dogs and dogs and their owners.  They are hygienic and easy to feed, and it is often possible to buy in bulk for convenience and economy.  The food contains every nutrient the dog needs in a carefully balanced formula.  Most manufacturers produce a complete range of puppy, junior and adult foods, so there will be one to suit your dog’ s needs throughout his life.  The presentation of the food in a dry biscuit form helps keep the dog’s teeth clean.  Your dog’s daily ration is easily measured in a scoop, allowing all family members to participate in feeding without risk of giving the wrong amount. Any food not eaten within ten minutes can easily be lifted to offer again later – not so easy with moist foods, which are more likely to attract flies. 

Tinned meats are usually high in protein and are designed to be fed alongside a dry mixer as the carbohydrate source.  This is still a popular way of feeding dogs and, as long as the meat and mixer are always mixed in the correct proportions, will provide a balanced diet.  The range of canned foods available for different life stages is much smaller than with the dry foods, and it is important to make sure that puppies are being fed one of the foods designed specifically for them.  Some manufacturers are now making complete canned foods in the same ranges as their dry foods and these can be an alternative for dogs which are very fussy about an all biscuit food, but they tend to be more expensive than dry completes.

It is possible to feed a home prepared diet, but please remember the importance of providing the correct nutritional balance.  If you are thinking of doing this it is vital that you talk it over with the vets or nurses first so we can advise you on the suitability of your chosen diet.  Too much meat in a puppy’s diet can lead to irreversible bone diseases, and your puppy is too important to take risks with.

If you are feeding a scientifically balanced diet, you must not upset that delicate balance by feeding too many titbits.  The best titbits to use in training are ones specifically designed to match your dog’s needs, preferable crumbled up pieces of dry food taken form his measured daily ration.  Remember to keep food treats small, and only in return for good behaviour.  Too many and they will lose their value in the dog’s eyes; too big and they will become more of a meal than a reward.  A puppy who is full and fat will quickly lose his concentration and become bored.

With modern diets, diseases associated with nutrient deficiencies are, thankfully, becoming rare.  However, malnutrition is still a serious problem faced by dogs today in it’s most common form of obesity.  If the diet contains more energy than is needed for growth and activity, the surplus energy must be stored.  Initially, this is done in the liver but as the storage capacity of the liver tissue is used up, it becomes stored around the body as fat. 

More than a third of pet dogs are obese, and almost another third are heading that way.  Obesity carries with it a number of serious health problems : overweight dogs are more prone to develop heart problems, arthritis and liver problems.  They also make less active companions, and are more likely to be distress in hot weather than fitter animals.  

Obesity is an easily prevented condition, and now is the time to form the habits which will save your dog from suffering in later life.  Some breeds are predisposed to obesity, such as Labradors and the small terrier breeds, neutered animals can also be a little more prone to gain weight.  As well as taking your pup for regular exercise, be sure to feed him no more than is required to keep him in peak condition with his ribs easily felt, but not showing.  

Be prepared to be told lies – just because a dog says he is hungry does not mean that he needs more food!  In the wild, he would gorge himself whenever food was available, as he may not eat again for several weeks.  This urge to ‘feast before the fast’ still exists, so most dogs will happily eat more than is good for them.

Ask to have your dog weighed whenever you are in the surgery, and keep a record of his weight so that any sign of excess weight gain can be picked up early.  If he does become overweight, consult the nurses or vets, who will help you to plan a sensible approach to bringing his weight back to normal.

As your pup becomes more mature, you will want to decrease the number of meals he is fed every day.  A small puppy stomach can not cope with large amounts of food, so in the first three to four months of life (depending on the breed and size – small breeds mature faster) he will need to have his daily ration divided into four small meals.  

The best guide as to when to cut out a meal is your puppy, he will reach a point where he is not begging for every meal, or one meal is being eaten less enthusiastically.  The best meal to cut out initially is a mid day one.  Avoid the temptation to cut out the latest meal.  Many people hope this will lead to fewer night time messes to clear up, but in fact the opposite may be true.  

The night is a long time on an empty stomach, and if the pup awakes and feels hungry he will find it hard to settle again and is more likely to need the loo and to chew.  At six months or so, the number of meals can be cut from three to two.  Continue feeding two meals per day until the pup is at least a year old, if not for life.

Not all dogs are very greedy; particularly small and toy breeds can be fussy about food.  Be persistent, if you coax your puppy too much with tasty morsels, he may grow up refusing to eat dog food altogether.  This leads to an unbalanced diet with the associated health problems and make it very difficult to give the dog medicines or prescription foods that may help to treat medical problems that develop in later life.

Important points about feeding time  

Meal times are, of necessity, very important to dogs in the wild.  Although domestic dogs can be more certain of where the next meal is coming form than their ancestors, instincts are still very strong and your pup will interpret some important messages about his position in your ‘pack’ from the way you control meal times.

There is truth in the old adage about ‘the hand that feeds’ – your puppy will bond strongly with whoever controls his food.  Try and have everybody in the house become involved with feeding, perhaps by taking it in turns to put down the puppy’s meals.  Even very young family members can be involved in feeding time, under careful parental supervision.

Pack leaders eat first.

If your meal times coincide, eat first yourselves before feeding the puppy, even if it is only a cup of tea and a biscuit.  Do not feed the puppy scraps from your plate; if there are any leftovers for him, keep them aside and feed them to him with his next meal, from his own dish.

Take control of meal times.  Prepare your puppy's meal in front of him and ask him to perform a simple task for you such as a short ‘sit – stay’ before he is allowed to eat his meal.

Never leave your puppy alone to eat.

Stay with him and talk to him, occasionally bend down and stroke him.  He should become accustomed to being approached while he has food.  This will put you in control, and ensure that he will always allow you near him when he has food.  This in an important lesson – one day you may need to take a chicken bone from his mouth that he has raided form a bin, for example.  If he has learned to be protective about his food, you would have no chance!

Feeding Exercises

Occasionally, carry out these exercises with your pup to keep you in control of feeding times.  One of the exercises per week would be sufficient, involve all family members.

Wait for It!

Once in a while, prepare the pup`s meal a few minutes early and leave it out of his reach while you eat your own meal.  Don’ t tease him with it by making hm wait too long or after his usual meal time, but do make sure he performs a few simple exercises before the meal goes down for him.

Added Extras

Measure out the pup’s meal but only put around half of it in the bowl.  Ask him to sit and wait as usual while you put the bowl down.  As he is eating, gradually place the rest of his meal in the bowl. Talk to him and stroke him throughout. Your pup will learn to accept hands reaching down to the bowl as being a good thing, not to be guarded against.

Occasionally, lift the bowl right away form the pup and put in a particularly tasty morsel.  The special treat will reward the pup for allowing you to take the bowl right away from him.  (some old fashioned training books suggest that you take your puppies food away form him frequently as a display of ‘dominance’ over him.  This is not recommended as it is unfair and can actually teach dogs to bolt their food and become defensive of it, as they are never quite sure they will be allowed to keep it.)

Leave It!

Take time to teach your puppy to leave when he is told.  Your pup must learn that he cannot have everything he wants.  He does not understand our values – to him a twenty pound note is just a scrap of paper, a cashmere sweater is an interesting ragger and a chicken bone is a tasty snack.  This exercise will also teach him not to snatch when he is offered something, and will reinforce your position as pack leader.

Arm yourself with several titbits, some more interesting to your pup than others.  Hold one between thumb and forefinger and offer it to the pup.  As he goes to take it, say ‘LEAVE’ firmly, and push his nose back with the other three fingers.  Repeat until he backs off from you and the titbit.  When he does so, reward him with verbal praise and an extra tasty treat for your other hand.  Do not pull your hand back – the pup must back away from you to receive the reward.  Some will get the idea of this exercise very quickly, others take a little longer.  Be patient.  However long it takes, do not frighten your pup be pushing him away or shouting at him.  This is a quiet controlling exercise which will help establish your authority and allow the pup to see clearly what is allowed and what is not.

When the pup has got the hang of leaving a titbit in your hand, try asking him to leave his meal or a toy, occasionally.  You can also try ‘guarding’ a toy or titbit placed by your foot.  This is ‘your’ piece of food, and not to be taken by the puppy.  If he tries to take it, say ‘LEAVE’ and reward him with another titbit when he backs away.  Do not play this game too often or for too long, or he will become frustrated, but do be sure to keep your titbit at the end – it does not go to the puppy.  (You can always put it back in the tub with the others and use it later when the exercise is long past!)

Once learned, the ‘leave’ command should be practiced occasionally with your dog throughout his life – you never know when you might need him to remember it for real.

How dogs learn

Animals learn by a process of trial and error. The outcome of an activity will affect whether the pup develops it into a habit, or never does it again. This is a bit of an oversimplification - there is a large grey area where the success or failure is not clear cut and where the pup will need to continuously repeat an activity to learn about it. The more times the activity is repeated, the more the pup will learn about it.

For example, the pup approaches a cat for the first time. The cat' s response could affect how the pup feels about cats in the future.

a)  The cat arches its back, hisses loudly and scratches the pup in the face.
The pup is frightened and hurt. It yelps, backs off and learns not to approach cats -they' re sharp!

b)  The cat immediately turns and runs away, and the puppy gives chase
The pup has great fun chasing the cat. Next time he sees one, he will approach it enthusiastically!

c)  The cat hisses, and does not move. The pup backs off for a moment but is not sure what to make of this strange hissing creature, and tries again. The game continues for half an hour until the pup becomes bored and wanders off
The pup is not quite sure what to make of cats, but spends some time repeatedly 'trying it out'. In the end it decides that cats are a bit odd and not really worth bothering with.

So, the pup learns more from an immediate, clear signal.

Like people, animals learn and retain information best when they are happy and relaxed. Puppies passing through the socialisation phase of development are eager to please and learn best through reward based training.

By using a reward based method, the puppy learns to be attentive towards and trusting of the owner. He will be encouraged learn by trying new things in anticipation of a reward, rather than being anxious about being wrong.

A reward can be anything the puppy wants

For example:

• a pleasant experience (this is how pups learn for themselves)

• a reward given by you can be any combination of

  • verbal praise 

  • food

  • play with a favourite toy

All dogs are motivated by different things and it is worth experimenting with your pup to find out which rewards he values most highly, and what sounds or signals work best to attract his attention.

It is good practice for all dogs to learn to defer to their owners by briefly sitting and attending to them before receiving anything they want. This habit can be started at any age.

Dogs, especially puppies, have a very short attention span. They will associate two events only if they occur very close together (less than half a second). Thus it is important to time the reward carefully, to be given exactly as the puppy performs the desired behaviour.

About Verbal Praise

Experiment with different voices to find what works best for your pup. Most puppies respond best to a high-pitched, excited voice. Speak as quietly as possible to the pup to encourage him to listen carefully to you. A whisper often works better than a yell!

Always talk to your pup when you are rewarding him, eventually you will be able to use verbal praise alone, but to begin with the pup will learn best if you reinforce this with other good experiences.

About Food Treats

Most puppies respond best to food treats as rewards.. Remember that the treats are used as a salary or reward, NOT as a bribe. Find a food that the pup likes but which he does not usually experience. I would suggest tiny cubes of cheese or boiled slivers of chicken. The treat should be desirable enough to motivate the pup but not so much so as to get him excited. Food treats should be tiny so that the pup does not become full, fat and bored. If he stops responding to one kind of treat, try another one.

Rewarding dogs with food treats is an acquired art form. To prevent the dog lunging for the food, keep ready prepared treats in a bag or cup behind your back and keep one treat in a hand, ready to reward the dog. That hand can either be kept behind your back so that the dog does not stare at the food, or raised towards your face so teach the pup to make eye contact with you. The treat must be small enough that the focus of the dog's attention is on you and not the treat. A treat of the correct size can be enclosed in the palm of your hand. When presenting the pup with the treat, move the hand, with fist closed, up quickly towards him and turn your wrist to offer the treat from an open palm.  It stands to reason that he pup will not be impressed by a food reward right after a big meal!

Play as a Reward

All training sessions should be short and fun, and finish up with a game. Some puppies are not highly motivated by food Squeaky toys, raggers and balls can all be incorporated into training sessions and used to attract attention and reward the pup by allowing them to take chase the ball or take possession of the toy briefly.  

A combination of all three reward methods is ideal!

House Training your Puppy

Housetraining is a stage which must be worked through with every new puppy. Some pick the idea up very quickly; others seem to take a while to catch on.  If your pup is one of the slower ones, take heart – they all get there in the end!

Understanding how your puppy’s mind works can help to take some of the hassle out of housetraining for both of you.  Remember, what being clean means to you and what it means to your pup are not necessarily the same thing!  To you, it is important that the puppy will go to a chosen spot in the garden to do his business.To your pup, it is important to relieve himself where and when the notion takes him!  The puppy’s only major criteria are that he would prefer to perform in a quiet place away from his food and his bed, which is a health and safety rule of nature.  

From the puppy’s point of view, this makes behind the sofa or on your bedroom floor perfectly acceptable places.  It is up to you to show him that this is not what you had in mind, and to guide him to a better spot.

So - Lets get everybody on the same wavelength and make housetraining as easy as possible for both of you. Right from the start, choose a spot in the garden which you would like the puppy to use as his toilet area. 

Remember that a puppy’s early warning system is not very good in the early weeks so make life as easy as possible for both of you by choosing a spot which is quick and easy to reach from the puppy’s bed, food and play areas.

Anticipate when the puppy will need to be taken out

As a general rule, puppies need to go to the loo at the following times :

• immediately after waking.

• after eating or drinking.

• when excited.

• after playing and sometimes during a wild game if he did not have a chance to go out before the game started.

• At least every waking hour!

These are your guidelines – get the pup to his appointed toilet area at these times and you are well on your way to cracking the problem

Watch for the signs

Learn to read your puppy’s body language and you will soon spot tell tale signs that he is about to urinate or defaecate.  Typical signs to look for are sniffing around in a purposeful manner, circling round on one spot or holding the tail high.  As soon as you spot these signs, pick the pup up and take him straight to his toilet area.

Show him what you expect of him

Don’t expect your puppy to know where he has to go without being shown.  Take him, stay with him, encourage him (start using a chosen word now and in time, he will learn to go on command), and praise him every time he gets it right!

Don’t let it turn into a  game

Housetraining time is not wild game in the garden time.  If the puppy does not perform straight away when taken to his toilet area, don’t keep him out for ages.  Instead, take him back inside but watch him especially carefully.Don’t let him wander off behind a chair or into another room.  If you have an indoor kennel, pop the pup inside for a few minutes.  Take him out again 10 minutes later.  This vigilance will quickly bring rewards, so persevere.

Do not expect a very young puppy to last all night without needing the toilet or if you have to go out for a few hours, even after he has got the hang of daytime housetraining.  Some puppies are unable to last all night until they are almost a year old.  Provide the puppy with a suitable surface that is easy to clean.  Cover the appointed area with polythene under a layer of newspaper.  The paper is quick and easy to dispose of and the polythene will protect your floor.  A relatively enclosed night time bed area will speed up the house training process, but do make sure as your puppy grows that he still has enough space to avoid soiling his own bed if he cannot wait – a prospect neither of you will relish.

NEVER chastise a puppy for having an accident – he can not wait and it is unfair to expect him to hold on until you are ready to take him out.  Punishment will only confuse him and may in fact teach him to be more secretive about toileting.  You don’t want him to be afraid of going to the loo where you can see him, but rather to perform quickly in your presence when you take him out!

Mistakes will happen; it’s all part of bringing up a puppy.  Instead of getting annoyed with the pup or yourself, clean up any accidents which happen as quickly as possible, with the minimum of fuss.  Treat the area with a pet deodoriser ( we sell proprietary sprays or you can make your own by diluting a small amount of biological washing powder in water and using this – check that the spray won’t bleach your carpets first, though!)  Such a spray will completely eliminate doggy odours detectable by his sensitive nose as well as yours.  To our noses an area may smell perfectly fresh when cleaned with a normal cleaner, but to the dog’s nose there will be a residual scent which attract him back to use the same area again.

While you are cleaning up, think why the accident happened ?

• When was the puppy last outside?

• When did he last eat?

• Have you changed his diet?

• Has there been a change in the household routine?

• Do accidents happen when he gets excited?

• Have you relaxed your housetraining a little too early?

• Have you cleaned any accident areas with a deodoriser?

• Does he understand what is expected of him?

If the puppy is having a lot of accidents, this would suggest that he does not really understand what is expected, so take the time to go right back to the beginning and show him again what you want.  No shouting or smacking, just lots of time and patience!

It is quite common for a puppy to appear to have become housetrained and then to relapse for a while.  Do not despair; consider the possibilities and you will probably be able to pinpoint what has gone wrong.  From there, take a few steps back and retrain.

Very rarely, medical problems can cause a form of incontinence in which the dog really does not know that it needs the loo and so has no stimulus to ask out.  If your puppy is continually having accidents and normal housetraining methods are simply not working, make an appointment to see one of the vets.

Finally, some dogs, however well trained still have little accidents when they are greeting visitors or family members.  Every time these dogs become excited, a little puddle appears, and no matter how much you chastise the dog, the problem just seems to get worse!  This is a natural response called submissive urination and is quite separate from normal house training.  

The dog is actually trying to show you how much he respects you and how lowly she (the problem is more common in bitches) thinks she is.  To help your dog break this habit, do not shout at her; instead keep greetings very low key and ideally outside.  Build up the dog’s confidence gradually and greet her gently.  If she has an accident, clean it up and don’t make a fuss. 

Leader of the pack

Why do dogs make good companions for people?

One of the reasons is that, like us, they tend by nature to live in groups.  From the moment your puppy became aware of his surroundings, he was part of a pack.  Since joining your household, the pup has been readjusting to fit into a new pack.  Just as the puppy is rapidly becoming 'one of the family' for the humans in the house,  from the puppy's point of view, all the people and other pets in the household are part of his new 'family-pack'.

Even at a few weeks of age, the individual characters of each puppy begin to express themselves and the litter your puppy has recently left would have been organised into a structure with a top, a middle and a bottom and Mum as the overall pack leader.  Your puppy will expect his new pack also to have a structure and will be looking to you to show him where he fits in. 

Who is pack leader in your house ?

Hopefully, the answer is YOU. It is important that the pack order is established from the very beginning of your relationship. Get this right, and you will have the basis for a relationship with your dog that is rewarding for both of you.

Who decides when it is time for your puppy to be fed or have a cuddle?  Who starts and finishes the games ?  Who decides where the puppy sleep ? 

If the answer to any of these questions is 'the puppy', your relationship could be starting on the wrong foot.  Following a few basic pack rules will establish from the very start that people rank higher in the family pack than your dog.  Not that you love him any less, but that you love him in his correct place.

What is a pack leader's role ?

The leader of a canine pack is the top of the heap, the BOSS.  The position brings many privileges, pack leader eats first and has the pick of the resting places, but also carries many responsibilities.  The leader of the pack is responsible for protecting the other pack members and for making the rules and ensuring they are followed.

A  dog pack leader fulfils their role by guiding other pack members and rewarding them for behaving in the appropriate manner.  The good pack leader can be firm when necessary and fun when suitable.  Most important, a pack leader must earn the pack's respect by being CONSISTENT.  Decide on the rules for your pack and make sure everybody understands and follows them.

Suggested rules for your pack to live by :

• Higher Ranking Pack Members Sleep in the Best Places  
  Provide your puppy with his own comfortable bed and teach him from the start that this is where he sleeps.  You have every right to stand in his bed if you choose to as you are the boss, but he is not allowed on your bed.  If you choose to allow your dog onto the chairs with you, that is fine but remember that dogs do not understand the difference between clean and dirty.  It is not fair to allow your pup to leap all over the chairs some of the time and then expect him not to jump up when he is wet from a walk.  If you do decide to allow dogs onto the furniture, make sure your puppy waits and asks before he is allowed up and take care to lift him off when you get up.  Have one set of rules and stick to them. 

  What is the puppy learning ?  – you control the resting places.

   

• Higher Ranking Pack Members Eat First

  In any wild dog pack, the leader eats first and the lower ranking pack members have what is left.  Make sure that your puppy knows you control the food.  Do not leave his meals down all the time, or he will be able to eat what he wants when he wants.  If meal times coincide, prepare the puppy's meal in front of him and leave it within his sight while you eat your meal.  Once you are finished, he may eat.  Anything he does not finish is lifted and not offered again until the next meal  Do not feed your puppy table scraps, not only will this teach him to beg but it will tell him that he is allowed to eat at the same time as higher ranking pack members.
  What is you puppy learning ?  - you control the food, not him.

   

• Give your puppy lots of attention, but on your terms

  Don't wait until he demands a game or a cuddle, you be the instigator.  Call him to you and make a fuss of him, play with him and train him.  If the puppy tries to demand attention, ignore him and avoid eye contact.  Once he has given up and gone off to amuse himself, call him to you and play a game.
  What is the puppy learning ? - you are his hero !
  
  

• Always control the games you play with your puppy

  Keep special toys and bring them out to play with him often.  You start the games and you finish them, removing the toys at the end of the play session  and placing them out of reach.  Always stop before the puppy becomes bored so the toys retain their novelty value and he will always be on the look out for another game.  An additional benefit is that your puppy will become excited when you bring out the special toys and they can be used as reward in training
  What is your pup learning ? - You control the best trophies.
  

• To handle and groom your puppy is a privilege you extend to him

  Whatever the length of your dog's coat, he will benefit from a daily groom.  Start teaching your pup to accept being handled all over. Wait until he is tired from a game and begin by stroking him gently and talking quietly to him. Gradually introduce a gentle brush such as a Zoom Groom.  Short, pleasant grooming sessions will help to reinforce the bond between you and clarify your position as pack leader, whilst teaching your puppy that human hands are not a threat
  What is your puppy learning ? – it is your right to handle and groom him if you wish.
  

• Higher ranking pack members walk where they wish

  If the puppy is lying in a doorway you wish to walk through, make him move to let you pass.  Do not walk round him to get to a destination. If you are passing through a door or gateway with him, make sure he allows you to pass through first
  What is your puppy learning ? - stepping aside is a mark of respect.

Don't expect the pup to know your standards, teach him what you want.  Don't take good manners for granted – praise the good behaviour and ignore the bad.  Time spent educating your pup now is an investment for the future !

Normal Canine Social Development

All puppies develop at different rates, just like children, but they do all go through the same general phases 

Newborn 0-2 weeks

The pup is blind and almost deaf, and spends most of his time sleeping, eating and growing.  The pup cannot control its own body temperature and relies on huddling together with Mum and littermates for warmth.  The eyes open at 10-14 days, but vision is poor for a few weeks

Transition Period 2-3 weeks

The pup learns to walk and lap liquids. The ears open towards the end of the third week, vision improves and the pup develops a sense of smell.  The pup develops the ability to urinate and defaecate for itself

Socialisation Period 3-12 weeks

This is the critical period.  The pup is ready to venture away from the nest and explore the world.  At seven weeks of age, the puppy is capable of learning as much as it ever will be able to during its life.  Puppies at this stage are like living sponges – they learn form everything going on around them, developing good (and bad habit which will last a lifetime.  More than any other stage, the experiences a pup has during the transition period can affect how it will cope with the world as an adult dog.

The socialisation period can be divided into several stages;

Phase 1 , weeks 3-5

The puppy learns to play and starts reacting to sound. The mother will begin disciplining the pups with a low growl when necessary.  The first teeth are erupting and towards the end of this phase, the pups will start to play chasing and pouncing games with each other

Phase 2 , weeks 5-8

The puppy begins to use facial and ear expressions and becomes more coordinated. Play becomes rougher and the pups start to establish a dominance hierarchy within the litter. The puppies are weaned and, in the wild would be starting to learn to hunt for themselves.  This is the ideal time for a pup to leave the litter and start life in its new home.

Phase 3, weeks 8-12

The pup continues to explore the world around it.  It will begin to assess its position in its new family and is eager to please.  The pup forms strong impressions of people and objects it meets and should be experiencing and enjoying a wide variety of new situations, including puppy playgroup.  The puppy continues to learn through play and will have to learn `human` games

This is an ideal time to form a strong bond between owner and puppy, to teach the puppy to respond to its name and other signals and to commence basic training. The puppy should be house trained early during this phase and should learn its position within the family structure – as a much loved bottom of the heap!

Juvenile Period 3-6 months

The puppy continues to learn through experience and becomes increasingly independent.  The pup will go for its first walks and will initially stay close to the owner but will start to explore further afield as it gains in confidence.  The pup starts changing teeth and chewing behaviours develop.

The early walks are an ideal time to continue exposing the pup to a wide variety of pleasurable new experiences, and to encourage it to develop a habit of not wandering too far off during walks.

Adolescent Period 6 months – 1 year/18 months

  The puppy is a teenager!  This is the time that, in the wild, the pup would be leaving the mother and developing a life of its own.  The pup becomes increasingly independent and will test its position in the pack hierarchy.  The pup becomes sexually mature, bitches will have their first season and dogs will develop an interest in the opposite sex.  The adult molars are growing and the pup has a strong desire to chew.

This is a testing time, and this is the age when most dogs appear at rescue centres for rehoming.  If the ground rules have been firmly established during the early days, it will be far easier to cope with.  As a general rule, the bigger the dog, the longer it remains adolescent, but they do all grow out of it (eventually)

Maturity 1 year/18 months onwards

The dog has developed its basic character, although behaviour patterns will continue to be refined for a few years. The dog is still capable of learning new things, but is less flexible than the younger puppy.  This is the time when all the hard work put in during puppyhood should pay off and you can relax a bit and enjoy life with a well rounded, happy adult dog!

THESE ARE SOME IMPORTANT FACTS ABOUT DOGGS GROWTH!!!

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